Wednesday 26 November 2014

Tailors and Slashers



 
 
Finally managed to shift the writing block, at least for the moment….

This was done by going to the Royal Academy show devoted to Giovanni Battista Moroni (upstairs and a bit hidden away by comparison with the huge- in every sense of the world- Anselm Kiefer exhibition in the main galleries which, I’m afraid, simply did nothing for me).   It’s not huge- only about 45 paintings- but well worth a visit.   It’s also surprisingly easy to put together in London because it seems that there are more Moronis in British collections than there are anywhere else in the world apart from Bergamo.   For a variety of rather complex reasons (some of them actually derived from misattributions) his work became fashionable in England in the early decades of the seventeenth century- Charles I, always a better art critic than he was at being a monarch, was a fan- and underwent a second period in vogue in the mid-nineteenth.  As a result some of his most iconic works live in the National Gallery and just had to make a short journey down Piccadilly to join the exhibition.   Others however have emerged from private collections or from parish churches in northern Italy so this isn’t a case of repackaging mostly familiar works and charging people to see them again.

On one level Moroni lived a pretty uneventful life.   His artistic career however was side-swiped on a couple of occasions by external events which affected his art.  He was born in Albino, a small town on the Alpine fringes of the Lombard plain near Bergamo, around 1520.  He joined the workshop of Moretto in Brescia in the 1540’s.   Moretto was a good choice as he was well regarded by contemporaries (he gets a favourable review from Vasari, who wasn’t overly generous to non-Florentine artists and completely missed Moroni) and well conencted.  Although their shared homeland is now part of Lombardy in contemporary Italian administrative terms, in the mid sixteenth century (and indeed until 1797) it was the far west of the territory under the rule of the Venetian Republic.  As such it bordered on the Duchy of Milan, which was finally under Spanish control after years of warfare across northern Italy, though this control was only definitively consolidated as late as 1559. The Venice/Milan border wasn’t exactly a “hot” one by the time Moroni was making an independent career for himself but relations between Venice and the Spanish monarchy were often tense.   Venice was the only major Italian state which wasn’t either ruled directly by Spain or closely tied to Spanish interests in the mid and later sixteenth century and its ruling oligarchy were deeply concerned that Spain might try to turn it into a satellite state or seek to peel away chunks of its mainland territories.   Venetian rule over a city like Bergamo was mostly indirect.  There was a Venetian Governor but to a very considerable extent the local elites who had dominated the city before it submitted to Venice still ran the show- subject to a general Venetian override power.

Despite the political links to Venice and even though it’s clear that Moroni knew of the works of his major Venetian contemporaries like Titian (and vice versa) it’s by no means certain that he ever set foot there.   Indeed he doesn’t appear to have travelled very much during his life.  The most important journeys he made were to the city of Trento (then an independent Prince-Bishopric) where he undertook commissions linked to the episcopal household in the 1540’s and 50’s.  Trento at that point was of course primarily noted as the venue for the first and second sessions of the Council of Trent, where the leading lights of the Roman Catholic Church sought to work out how to respond to the challenge of the Protestant Reformation.   One element of this concerned how religious subjects ought to be depicted in art, which does seem to have marked Moroni’s approach to commissions to produce religious art.   The first side-swipe to his career came about here.   The Bishop of Bergamo, Vettore Soranzo , was a member of a group of would-be reformers known as the Spirituali who (simplifying grossly)promoted a simplified and inward-directed style of piety and hoped to find a compromise way forward which would enable the bulk of the church to reunite round a reformed Catholicism.   They came within touching distance of winning the upper hand in the church when their informal leader, the English Cardinal Reginald Pole, came within one vote of being elected Pope but the ride turned against them and and by the 1550’s even very senior members of the group were at serious risk of being burned as heretics.       Bishop Soranzo spent years under investigation.   The side –swipe to Moroni came about because religious commissions to him from Bergamo institutions almost dried up for years, until late in his life.   It’s not made entirely clear in the exhibition catalogue whether this was a general phenomenon, with only a handful of well-placed religious institutions prepared to risk commissioning anything while the rules were up in the air and the local bishop out of favour, or whether Moroni’s links to the bishop of Trento meant that he was deemed guilty by association of the popular Soranzo’s misfortunes and frozen out of the local market.  Either way Moroni was deprived of a core income source of  any Italian Renaissance artist.   Whether this was an altogether bad thing is another matter- Moroni’s religious art is competent rather than inspired.  He was always a far better portraitist so being obliged to seek commissions in that area was probably no bad thing.

The other side-swipe came in the 1560’s, when Moroni was well established in Bergamo and producing portraits of the local elites; though he did paint the occasional top rank figure (a Spanish governor of Milan, for instance) his core aristocratic audience was mostly composed of people who were basically local celebrities rather than people with an Italy-wide renown, a factor which led to lots of misidentifications and misattributions of Moroni’s paintings in subsequent generations.   The problem was that Bergamo was the stage for an increasingly violent feud between the Albani and Brembati families and their associates which culminated in a Brembati being hacked to death in a Bergamo church in 1563.  This kind of noble feuding was common enough across sixteenth century Europe but a killing on consecrated ground was going over the top- especially in a sensitive border area.  The Venetian authorities therefore came down hard on the entire pro-Spanish local elite, with a slew of condemnations to prison and sentences of exile aimed at key figures on both sides.   Moroni’s client base in Bergamo was shot out from under him.  He had to retreat to his home town of Albano and try to rebuild a career there.

He was clearly respected there; he served as a town councillor, for instance, and some of his old clients eventually came back once they’d served their terms in exile.   He was however obliged to descend the social hierarchy a notch to get enough work to keep his practice going- meaning, amongst other things that he had to simplify some aspects of his work to keep the costs down.   This turned out to be a positive thing artistically.  It means however that the identity of the sitters is even more obscure and open to debate.   Just how far this new clientele paid the rent is a bit unclear, at least from the documentation surrounding the RA show.   It may be significant that Moroni began doing more religious art late in his life.  There was a new bishop in Bergamo and the whole region under the ecclesiastical control of the Archbishopric of Milan was a hive of rebuilding and redecorating activity in the 1570’s under the impetus of visitations by the Archbishop, Carlo Borromeo, later to be canonised on the strength of his work as a model bishop in the post-Council of Trent mould.  Lots of churches needed to replace art which didn’t fit Tridentine models; I wrote a bit about this when talking about the National Gallery’s Veronese show so I won’t repeat it here.  Moroni had plenty to do and the exhibition catalogue even suggests that the sheer weight of work he took on undermined his health and contributed to his death around 1580.

What makes Moroni’s portraits special?   Even in his lifetime he was recognised as exceptionally talented at getting a true likeness of his subjects.  This wasn’t always seen as an entirely positive thing.   Titian is supposed to have made some rather ambiguous remarks about this skill which imply that this realism was fine for the second tier people Moroni was painting in his Bergamo heyday but hardly appropriate for the kings and Doges and Popes whom Titian painted, for whom a much grander style reflecting their office as much as their individual personality was required.     The striking thing about Moroni’s artistocrats, however, is precisely that Moroni manages to paint them as individuals with a clear sense of a personality while also managing to be flattering enough in other ways to retain their custom.
 


 

Take Gian Gerolamo Grumelli, for instance (see above).   It’s pretty clear that we’re dealing with a man with a notably high opinion of himself, with a gaze which implies that you’re better have a very good reason for distracting him and looking him in the eye rather than bowing low to him.   He isn’t likely to be entirely comfortable company as he stalks along the slightly crumbling portico which figures in so many of Moroni’s portraits of the 1560’s.   He’s dressed in the height of fashion in a spectacular coral pink outfit (the colour is a nod to the Grumelli coat of arms)- an intensely masculine colour in the sixteenth century.   The surroundings, however, hint at another side to the man; the fragments of classical statuary point to his interest in art and classical literature.  He may be a peacock and a bit of a fashion victim but he’s a man of culture.

Moroni has also painted his wife, Isotta Brembati (below) a few years earlier (before they married, so the portraits aren’t a matched pair).   Isotta certainly was a lady of culture; she was a published poet, for instance.   There’s no indication of her intellectual interests here, though.   She’s gorgeously dressed (Moroni loved the fabrics his sitters wore) and the sable she’s wearing round her neck worked into a kind of scarf clearly didn’t come cheap.  Nor did the ostrich feather fan she holds.  She’s a living demonstration of her household’s wealth and status and a woman in full command of the situation- Moroni has seated her in a pose normally  used for very senior male figures- but seemingly a little uneasy.   Perhaps she’d rather have been painted with some of her books, perhaps she’s worried that the cook misunderstood her instructions over dinner- we can only guess.  Or perhaps Moroni just wasn’t terribly good company as she had to hold the pose for hours on end; though he painted some very characterful old ladies, his female subjects are generally less convincing than their male counterparts  and some modern critics have speculated that he may have been gay.


 

Not all Moroni’s aristocrats were so overtly cultured.   Faustino Avogadro’s Albani wife may have been as cultured as Isotta but Moroni’s portrait of him below emphasises the warrior, or at least the fighter, in him.   He’s still wearing some of his jousting kit and his tournament armour is strewn on the ground (which doesn’t say much for his support crew- armour of that quality cost plenty and needed careful maintenance) while he rests his arm on a gorgeously plumed helmet.   The eye however is drawn to the brace on his left leg, which perhaps slightly undercuts the martial image (the painting was for many years known as  ”The Knight with the Wounded Foot”).   It’s now thought that Avogadro wore this all the time because of a congenital weakness in his ankle ligaments- which leaves me wondering just how effective a jouster he actually was, especially in those elements of tournaments which were fought out on foot.    There is a slightly louche aspect to his expression; is he actually a bit of a wannabe, only playing at being a serious competitor in knightly sports?   Whatever the seriousness of his disability, it didn’t stop him being one of those who slashed and hacked the Brembati to death in church.   He fled Bergamo and was ingloriously dead within a year, falling down a well in Ferrara when hopelessly drunk- a sad end for Moroni’s jaunty sportsman.


 

The local Venetian Governor, Antionio Navagero, looks surprisingly friendly and affable below given that Bergamo can’t have been the easiest posting in the mid 1560’s- though these is a slightly world-weary air to his gaze.  It’s not clear whether he’s just received the sealed letter he holds or is about to hand it over for onward delivery; if the former, it might be the latest denunciation of a local trouble maker to the authorities, meaning more difficult work for him.   He obviously did a good job during his years in Bergamo, or at least managed the various interest groups successfully as he was given a notably positive write up in local chronicles.   The striking feature of his portrait, however, is the huge and very visible codpiece he’s wearing.  Presumably this is a power statement along with his furred gown and red costume; one wonders if there are more subtle messages about the man encoded here….


 

In his later Albano years Moroni tended to simplify his portraits.  It’s possible that, as I suggested above, this was a simple response to more difficult trading conditions and a less affluent clientele who weren’t seeking ways to work coded references to their family mottos and heraldic devices into the art.   It may also be that Moroni himself became more and more focused on his sitters and inclined to strip away superfluous background detail.  Instead of standing in front of complex classicising architecture, his subjects now look out from a monochrome background.    In many cases, they look round at us over a shoulder or at an angle, as if interrupted in the middle of something.   The elderly man at the top of this piece, possibly the writer Pietro Spino, has evidently been interrupted in the middle of reading and marks his place with his finger, hoping  the disturbance won’t last too long.   Given his fur lined clothes and his hat, it must be a cold day.  There is a certain weary patience and wisdom in his gaze, but one senses that he wants to get back to his reading as soon as possible; there is so little time left for scholarship and he wants to make the maximum use of his remaining days.   As someone who loves reading and isn’t young any more, I find it rather affecting on a personal level.

Not all his Albano sitters were lower status.   Some of his old clients came back once they’d done their time.  Gian Girolamo Albani, patriarch of the Albani clan, is a study in black and white well before Whistler came up with the idea.    Again he appears to have been interrupted in mid-read but one doesn’t have the sense that this is quite so important to him.   He sits frontally- we’re having a formal audience with him rather than just dropping in.   He looks stern, one senses that five years of enforced exile on a remote island off the Dalmatian coast and dismissal from the various administrative offices he had held in the Venetian administration hasn’t done much to improve the temper of a man who always had a short fuse.   He’s still a man to be reckoned with and not without influence, as his finery shows, and you certainly wouldn’t want to get on the wrong side of him.  Maybe he’s about to make an offer you can’t refuse, maybe he just wants to vent about how shabbily he’s been treated.   As it happened, life was about to take a very strange turn for him; an old family friend was elected Pope and Pius V appointed this most improbable clergyman (he eventually took orders after his wife’s death) a cardinal.   Sometimes God really did move in mysterious ways…..


 

Perhaps the most famous portrait from this period, and the one which arguably most challenged conventions about who qualified for a formal portrait, is below.  It’s generally known as “The Tailor” for fairly obvious reasons.   A stylishly dressed man looks up at the viewer in a rather appraising way, as if pondering whether his visitor is a credible future client.   He holds a pair of large scissors in his right hand; on the table in front of him lies a piece of presumably high quality black cloth no doubt about to undergo cutting to shape.   A huge amount of ink has apparently been spilled on whether the subject of this painting is in fact a producer of bespoke gents suiting, mostly on the assumption that a tailor wouldn’t have been able to afford to commission Moroni to take his likeness and, as a mere mechanical craftsman, even if he did have the money he would have wanted to hide his source of income and look like a member of the leisured elite.   Is he perhaps a nobleman either fallen on hard times or with an unusual hobby?    None of this strikes me as particularly persuasive.    A man at the very top of the tailoring profession would have been making decent money (assuming his clients paid up- the stereotype of the gent not paying his tailor goes back a long way) and would obviously have dressed well as an advertisement for his own skills.  He handled expensive materials and had to create something which pleased his clients, conformed to wider social expectations but also had an element if individual style- not unlike a sixteenth century painter, in fact.  Tradesmen like goldsmiths and jewellers were regularly depicted in art by Moroni’s day; in treating this skilled craftsman as in some senses an artistic peer and showing him about his daily business, Moroni was perhaps extending definitions of gentility rather than radically subverting them.